Detroit 9000

Back from my annual pilgrimage to the Motorcity. I must apologise for my absence, I hoped to blog from the road but the wireless in my hotel was spotty at best.

I had planned to cover the Autorama hot rod show (59th year) as I was commissioned to write an article, the new job meant I would be there on more "official" business as well.

Any excuse visit my favourite city (Memphis is a close second), I don't know if it is the fact that I am nuts about cars or I just have something for the underdog?

As usual I planned to say at the retro Milner Hotel and enjoy its faded glamour, the hotel is smack dap in the city's historical district next to the Opera House and a stones throw or should that be baseball throw from Comerica Park. I was a little disappointed that I didn't get my usual room. In past years I have for some reason been given exactly the same room on the eight floor with an excellent view of the neon M in Milner.

I was also agast to find that this time I was apparently not the only guest. Really last year I was there five days and never saw another living soul besides the staff, even at breakfast.

The Milner has the worlds smallest and oddest shaped elevator so leaving en femme is a little like playing Russian roulette, you never know who you will be up close an personal with. This year I was on seven and right besides the back stairs so I had my own private exit if I so desired.

The lobby is beautiful but you have to be a fan of the vintage to enjoy the rooms. Mine had ancient steam radiator that seemed to have a mind of its own and windows that only responded to brute force. I guess all my experience with old cars of various conditions gives me a different perspective than the usual business traveller.

The hot rod show was exhausting, I had a press pass to get in early on Friday and lugging two cameras around and the constant up and down to get a good shot left me dizzy. I was exhausted by the end of the day and just wanted to sleep. Saturday was to be my big day.

I had a few hours in the morning before I had to shoot some of the bands playing downstairs at COBO and the pin up girl contest. I had set the morning aside to get some b-roll of Woodmere Cemetray and the Mowtown building....Hitsville USA.

Why a cemetery well I did say in an earlier post I was going to try an pay my rather late respects to David Buick, founder of the eponymous company.

I also decided only the night before to do this all as April. I had brought a suitcase with a few outfits and shoes in case I could get out and maybe hit a mall or two.

Crossing the border on Thursday afternoon I had a very interesting experience with US Customs. As normal I presented my passport and explained why I was entering the United States. I guess with the longer hair I look different from my photo so she asked for a second piece of ID. Satisfied I was who I said I was she still wanted to look in the car. No problem, first thing she does is open the case with the shoes!

I thought you were travelling alone?

I am I said.

Who's shoes are these?

Mine.

What size are you?

Well I would like to say 10 1/2 but mostly 11.

I volunteer that I am transsexual and that I plan to transition this year. At that point she told me about a friend of hers who was transitioning from FtoM.

We had a quite a long conversation as she had a lot of questions (there was no one behind me), my most pleasant experience ever with US Customs. A year or two ago having to tell anyone about myself would have meant I would have died of embarrassment and shame. Progress I think.

Saturday morning I was up early showered and went down to breakfast. Back up to my room changing into jeans, purple top and cami and a black belted sweater as well as a heavier black winter coat with fur trim if it got colder. Grabbed my camera bag and tripod and went out through the stunning lobby. Retrieved the turbo Mitsubishi (presscar) and headed towards the river on Woodward then right on Forte Street to find Woodmere Cemetery. Woodmere like Atlanta's Oakland is a huge green spot in the midst of the city.

I drove in the front gates at 9:00AM and carefully negotiated the snowy lanes to eventually find the Allendale section.

I trudged through the deep snow each step a chore as I punctured the frozen crust, only the squirrels were light enough to dart cross the snow without sinking in. I made two laps tof the not insubstantial Allendale section before admitting defeat. I could not find the Buick marker, perhaps the tough Michigan winter had toppled the grave stone. A number had been thrown over frost heaved ground and lay illegible under the deep snow.

I am a stubborn girl so I screwed up my courage and went to the main office where I found the resident genealogist who provide me with a photocopy of an old map with the grave site marked. So intent was I on finding David Buicks grave that I nearly forgot I had just interacted with complete strangers ass April.

Unfortunately the map didn't help and I was forced to conclude that his was one of the fallen tomb stones. I hope to try again in better weather.

Next stop number 2648 West Grand Boulevard, Hitsville USA, the home of Motown Records. The studio was in almost constant 24 hour use from 1959 to 1971, with Motown eventually buying many of the neighbouring homes on the street to house various divisions and record company operations before eventually splitting for California in 1972. Perhaps Mr. Gordy just got tired of all that snow.

I took some exterior shots (no cameras allowed inside) then decided to go in. I thought I could just walk around by myself and look at the exhibits but found myself thrust into a tour group, "oh good your just time to join the group, with one of our best guides" the girl at the ticket desk instructed me...gulp.

The famous Studio A is simply a typical row house so things were cramped and there was no way I could keep a low profile. I think I did pretty well and did my best to go with the flow. I did keep my mouth shut when the tour guide asked if there were any foreign or out of state visitors. I don't recall any funny stares from adults or children and I slowly began to relax and enjoyed the tour.

I highly recommend the museum to anyone if they are visiting the Motorcity. The studio and equipment are pretty much as Marvin Gaye left it when he finished the last album ever recorded there. The office equipment and upstairs living quarters were as accurate as any episode of Mad Men, wish I could have taken some photos. Really like stepping back in time to the mid sixties, imagine all the music spilling out the doors, Diana Ross answering the phones and stepping outside to a street filled with new Cadillacs, Thunderbirds and Rivieras. perhaps Detroit at its industrial and cultural peak.

Part 2 tomorrow...

Here is the first #1 hit for Motown, Hugs April